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                                                       About the Poodle Breed

 

   From the Poodle Club of America (www.poodleclubofamerica.org):

Poodles come in three sizes: the Standard (over 15 inches at the shoulder - most are in the 22-27" range); the Miniature (over 10 inches and not over 15 inches); and the Toy ( 10 inches and under.) The original Poodles were water dogs used for retrieving and their conformation and the texture and pattern of their coats to this day reflect the purposes for which they were bred. Miniatures and Toys have been bred down from the larger Poodles and they exhibit the same general characteristics. The Poodle is an active, intelligent, ruggedly-built dog which is at the same time elegant and refined. Well-bred Poodles in all three varieties now have steady, calm nerves, hardy constitutions and they can be easily trained. A Poodle is a "person" and he expects to be treated as one. Each one is a character and for that reason they make wonderful companions.

A Poodle should be a member of the family. Prospective owners of Poodles should be equipped to provide a fenced-in area in which the Poodle can exercise or be prepared to walk the Poodle regularly on a leash. Poodles permitted to roam are likely to be stolen or killed. Poodles require regular clipping and grooming; a dexterous owner can readily learn how to groom his own dog or he can take the Poodle to a professional grooming shop. Poodles are not finicky eaters (unless made so by indulgent owners;) they thrive on simple, prepared dog foods.

The best place to buy a Poodle is from a Poodle breeder. A reputable breeder tries to produce the ideal Poodle as described in the Standard of the Poodle; he wants to produce a sound, healthy dog, excellent in conformation and temperament, one which will be both an ideal show dog and an ideal companion. He has spent much time and effort in study, breeding and selection; his breeding program is based on accumulated knowledge of which dogs to use to produce the best Poodles. Not all puppies in a litter will satisfy his definition of a show prospect. Maybe in a litter only one or two puppies will be retained for showing; the others he will classify as "pet puppies." The differences will be so small that only an expert judge will be able to make the distinction; the eyes may be a bit too light, the tail a bit gay or the hocks a bit straight. All Poodles in the litter will display essentially the same characteristics, the same quality of construction, personality and health. For a pet price a prospective buyer can purchase a well-bred, professionally raised Poodle, backed by the integrity of the breeder, accompanied by helpful advice, instructions and the enduring interest of the breeder in the welfare of the dog which he is selling. Puppy Mills and pet shops, those who exploit the popularity of the Poodle in order to make a fast buck, buy their dogs in litters, usually by mail, as early as they can be weaned. They are not concerned with temperament, hereditary faults or quality; they are simply interested in so many puppies that they can sell for so many dollars. They do not bother about medical care. They are not interested in what happens to the dog after it is sold.

Show Quality versus Pet Quality-A show quality puppy is one which, in the breeder's opinion, should be able to become a champion. A pet quality puppy is less likely, in the breeder's estimation, to succeed in the show ring. However, making such a prediction at 8 to 16 weeks of age (the age when puppies typically are sold) involves guesswork and is not a sure thing.

A pet quality puppy is one that has a minor fault which would eliminate it from being shown, i.e., a white spot on the chest or elsewhere, one testicle, oversize or undersize (Toys or Miniatures), or an improper bite. However, the feature (s) which disqualify the puppies from the show ring, in no way, affects their ability to be a wonderful companion.

Spay/Neuter-The Poodle Club of America recommends that you spay /neuter your Poodle. Responsible breeders sell their Poodles with a spay/neuter agreement, and with AKC's limited Registration option which says that although your pet is an AKC registered purebred dog, it cannot be bred. If it is bred, the offspring cannot be registered with the American Kennel Club. Using this form is the breeder's way of ensuring that the puppy will not be bred and pass along the disqualifying feature to future generations. Spaying or neutering your dog also increases its chances of leading a longer, healthier and happier life. Spayed females will have reduced incidence of mammary tumors. Neutering a male will reduce the chance of prostate problems. Please Note: There is no scientific evidence that it is helpful for a bitch to have a first season or have a litter of puppies.

Obedience/ Training the Poodle-Basic obedience is necessary for all dogs. Poodles are very intelligent and easily trained to do a number of things. Some of the activities that Poodles enjoy are field trials, hunting, agility, and obedience. Local Kennel Clubs or Professional training schools offer classes to train your Poodle.

Veterinarian-When you get your Poodle puppy, take it to the Vet's office for a Well Puppy Check Up. This will ensure that its shots and worming are up to date. In addition, your vet will check your puppy's heart, ears, etc. so that you can be assured that every thing is as it should be.

Grooming-Your new puppy has been delivered to you freshly bathed, toe nails trimmed, hair in the ear canal has been removed, ears are fresh and clean smelling, face, feet and tail have been shaved and the body coat is scissored to a pleasing shape.

Now, all you have to do is learn the basics of coat care. Prior to being bathed, your puppy should be brushed out thoroughly. Ideally, the puppy should be bathed (using a mild puppy shampoo) at least twice a month. Care must be taken not to allow any soap in the puppy's eyes or water in it's ears. Blow dry your Poodle under low heat from your hair dryer using the brush while blowing dry. If you have a standard puppy you may wish to purchase an electric dog dryer. It's better to use a pin brush, rather than a wire slicker which is meant for badly tangled coats and will pull out hair. It is a good idea to brush your puppy every other day or so, which will insure that you never have to worry about its coat becoming tangled and matted. If this does happen to your new Poodle, the coat may have to be shaved completely, something you want to avoid. If you don't want to bath your puppy at home, it maybe done by a professional groomer in a grooming shop. It is not wise to expose your puppy to the grooming shop until after 16 weeks when shots for parvo and distemper will be fully up to date.

Clipping and scissoring should be left to the professional at the start, however many people learn to do their own trimming in time, and enjoy the challenge.

Ears should be cleaned weekly. Gently pull the long hairs out of the ear canal regularly, and swab the ear canal with your finger wrapped in cotton moistened with ear cleaner recommended by your Vet or Groomer. If the puppy is scratching its ears or the ears have a bad odor, see your vet immediately.

Toe nails must be clipped every week or two. This is very important. By doing the nails regularly the puppy will become use to it. Take off only the tip ends of the nail, as you do not wish to cut into the "Quick" which will hurt and bleed.

Whatever you do in terms of grooming, do not frighten the puppy or make it nervous about grooming. Teach it to lie quietly as it is being brushed and rely on treats to make it an enjoyable experience.

Remember Poodles do not shed, they make a perfect breed for people with allergies and asthma. They may require more maintenance than some other breeds, but well worth the effort. Never be afraid to ask any questions of your Breeder, Veterinarian or Groomer.

Crate Training-A crate is not a jail, it is the safest place the puppy can be to learn to be housebroken, have its meals, sleep at night, ride in the car, and stay in hotels and motels. It will become its own portable "Den". The nature of a dog is not to foul its "Nest". This means that until you have instilled in the puppy an idea of housebreaking, a healthy puppy will not go against its natural instincts.

Have a crate the size that will fit the puppy comfortably, large enough so that the puppy may stand up, turn around and has enough space to lie down with ease. You may have to get a larger crate as the puppy grows. If the puppy is going to be large, do not buy a huge crate to begin with. It will give the puppy ideas of being able to use a portion of it as a restroom, something you do not want to happen.

Start the puppy off in its crate the first night. Make sure the puppy has not had water after 4p.m., that the puppy has had its supper, has been given a chance to relieve itself, just before you go to bed. Put the crate with a towel in it, next to your bed. Put the puppy in the crate with a puppy biscuit, always reward for entering the crate, and settle down for the night.

If the puppy has other ideas, do not give in. Do not take the puppy on the bed or allow the puppy to run free in the bedroom. The first couple of nights are the most important, to both you and the puppy. Training is a matter of patience and time.

Always travel with the puppy in its crate, it is the only safe way. Always reward for correct behavior, even if it's only a small cracker. Carry some in your pocket for any occasion such as crating, performance of housebreaking duties, and coming when called. The opportunities are boundless, and will be a shortcut to training your puppy quickly and happily.

Responsible Owner- Poodle Club of America urges that if ever the day comes when you cannot care for your Poodle for whatever reason, you contact your Poodle's breeder. If you are unable to contact the breeder, there is a national rescue organization set up within the Poodle Club of America that can put you in contact with someone in your area who will help you with your Poodle. The AKC always has the name and number of the current contact for Rescue for the Poodle Club of America. American Kennel Club, 260 Madison Ave., New York, N.Y. 10016. Our goal is that no Poodle will have to go to an animal shelter.

 

From the American Kennel Club (http://www.akc.org/breeds/poodle/index.cfm):

Poodle Breed Standard
Non-Sporting Group
Toy Group

The Toy Poodle is 10 inches or under at the highest point of the shoulders. Any Poodle which is more than 10 inches at the highest point of the shoulders shall be disqualified from competition as a Toy Poodle.

As long as the Toy Poodle is definitely a Toy Poodle, and the Miniature Poodle a Miniature Poodle, both in balance and proportion for the Variety, diminutiveness shall be the deciding factor when all other points are equal.

Proportion - To insure the desirable squarely built appearance, the length of body measured from the breastbone to the point of the rump approximates the height from the highest point of the shoulders to the ground.

Poodle (Toy) Substance - Bone and muscle of both forelegs and hindlegs are in proportion to size of dog.

Head and Expression
(a) Eyes-- very dark, oval in shape and set far enough apart and positioned to create an alert intelligent expression. Major fault: eyes round, protruding, large or very light.

(b) Ears-- hanging close to the head, set at or slightly below eye level. The ear leather is long, wide and thickly feathered; however, the ear fringe should not be of excessive length.

(c) Skull-- moderately rounded, with a slight but definite stop. Cheekbones and muscles flat. Length from occiput to stop about the same as length of muzzle.

(d) Muzzle-- long, straight and fine, with slight chiseling under the eyes. Strong without lippiness. The chin definite enough to preclude snipiness. Major fault: lack of chin. Teeth-- white, strong and with a scissors bite. Major fault: undershot, overshot, wry mouth.

Neck, Topline, Body

Neck well proportioned, strong and long enough to permit the head to be carried high and with dignity. Skin snug at throat. The neck rises from strong, smoothly muscled shoulders. Major fault: ewe neck.

The topline is level, neither sloping nor roached, from the highest point of the shoulder blade to the base of the tail, with the exception of a slight hollow just behind the shoulder.

Body
(a) Chest deep and moderately wide with well sprung ribs. (b) The loin is short, broad and muscular. (c) Tail straight, set on high and carried up, docked of sufficient length to insure a balanced outline. Major fault: set low, curled, or carried over the back.

Forequarters
Strong, smoothly muscled shoulders. The shoulder blade is well laid back and approximately the same length as the upper foreleg. Major fault: steep shoulder.

(a) Forelegs - Straight and parallel when viewed from the front. When viewed from the side the elbow is directly below the highest point of the shoulder. The pasterns are strong. Dewclaws may be removed.

Feet - The feet are rather small, oval in shape with toes well arched and cushioned on thick firm pads. Nails short but not excessively shortened. The feet turn neither in nor out. Major fault: paper or splay foot.

Hindquarters
The angulation of the hindquarters balances that of the forequarters.

(a) Hind legs straight and parallel when viewed from the rear. Muscular with width in the region of the stifles which are well bent; femur and tibia are about equal in length; hock to heel short and perpendicular to the ground. When standing, the rear toes are only slightly behind the point of the rump. Major fault: cow-hocks.

Coat
(a) Quality--(1) Curly: of naturally harsh texture, dense throughout. (2) Corded: hanging in tight even cords of varying length; longer on mane or body coat, head, and ears; shorter on puffs, bracelets, and pompons.

(b) Clip-- A Poodle under 12 months may be shown in the "Puppy" clip. In all regular classes, Poodles 12 months or over must be shown in the "English Saddle" or "Continental" clip. In the Stud Dog and Brood Bitch classes and in a non-competitive Parade of Champions, Poodles may be shown in the "Sporting" clip. A Poodle shown in any other type of clip shall be disqualified.

(1) "Puppy"--A Poodle under a year old may be shown in the "Puppy" clip with the coat long. The face, throat, feet and base of the tail are shaved. The entire shaven foot is visible. There is a pompon on the end of the tail. In order to give a neat appearance and a smooth unbroken line, shaping of the coat is permissible. (2) "English Saddle"--In the "English Saddle" clip the face, throat, feet, forelegs and base of the tail are shaved, leaving puffs on the forelegs and a pompon on the end of the tail. The hindquarters are covered with a short blanket of hair except for a curved shaved area on each flank and two shaved bands on each hindleg. The entire shaven foot and a portion of the shaven leg above the puff are visible. The rest of the body is left in full coat but may be shaped in order to insure overall balance. (3) "Continental"--In the "Continental" clip, the face, throat, feet, and base of the tail are shaved. The hindquarters are shaved with pompons (optional) on the hips. The legs are shaved, leaving bracelets on the hindlegs and puffs on the forelegs. There is a pompon on the end of the tail. The entire shaven foot and a portion of the shaven foreleg above the puff are visible. The rest of the body is left in full coat but may be shaped in order to insure overall balance. (4) "Sporting"--In the "Sporting" clip, a Poodle shall be shown with face, feet, throat, and base of tail shaved, leaving a scissored cap on the top of the head and a pompon on the end of the tail. The rest of the body, and legs are clipped or scissored to follow the outline of the dog leaving a short blanket of coat no longer than one inch in length. The hair on the legs may be slightly longer than that on the body.

In all clips the hair of the topknot may be left free or held in place by elastic bands. The hair is only of sufficient length to present a smooth outline. "Topknot" refers only to hair on the skull, from stop to occiput. This is the only area where elastic bands may be used.

Color
The coat is an even and solid color at the skin. In blues, grays, silvers, browns, cafe-au-laits, apricots and creams the coat may show varying shades of the same color. This is frequently present in the somewhat darker feathering of the ears and in the tipping of the ruff. While clear colors are definitely preferred, such natural variation in the shading of the coat is not to be considered a fault. Brown and cafe-au-lait Poodles have liver-colored noses, eye-rims and lips, dark toenails and dark amber eyes. Black, blue, gray, silver, cream and white Poodles have black noses, eye-rims and lips, black or self colored toenails and very dark eyes. In the apricots while the foregoing coloring is preferred, liver-colored noses, eye-rims and lips, and amber eyes are permitted but are not desirable. Major fault: color of nose, lips and eye-rims incomplete, or of wrong color for color of dog.

Parti-colored dogs shall be disqualified. The coat of a parti-colored dog is not an even solid color at the skin but is of two or more colors.

Gait
A straightforward trot with light springy action and strong hindquarters drive. Head and tail carried up. Sound effortless movement is essential.

Temperament
Carrying himself proudly, very active, intelligent, the Poodle has about him an air of distinction and dignity peculiar to himself. Major fault: shyness or sharpness.

Major Faults
Any distinct deviation from the desired characteristics described in the Breed Standard.